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How do I contact Watch Chest for service?

What luxury watch brands do you service?

How much will Rolex service cost?

What if my luxury watch only needs a professional polishing or does not require a complete luxury watch overhaul?

What does the Watch Chest warranty include on overhauls?

Why choose Watch Chest?

How long will a luxury watch service take to complete?

How do I send my luxury watch to you?

What are the methods of payment that Watch Chest accepts?

How do I know the luxury Swiss bracelet will fit my wrist once I purchase it?

Rolex on eBay


How do I contact Watch Chest for luxury watch service?

At Watch Chest, we want to make this experience as easy for you as possible. Please follow these instructions to insure a smooth transaction:

1. Read below for more information on WatchChest.com and the repair service we offer.
2. To contact Watch Chest, LLC and give us notice that you are shipping your luxury watch for service, you may either fill out a Watch Service Form, contact us by telephone at 417.239.0438. The Watch Service Form will provide us with your contact information, Swiss watch information, and any requests or specific problems you may be having with your timepiece. For your convenience, the form will open in a new window.( make sure your pop-up is enabled)
3. Before shipping your luxury watch, we strongly recommend that you always keep record of the Rolex serial number and have it on file with your home owner's insurance policy.
4. Once you have given Watch Chest, LLC notice that your luxury watch is being sent to us by telephone at 417.239.0438 and/or a Luxury Watch Service Form, you can now package your luxury watch. Before sending, we ask that you please include within the box your name and contact information, brand of Swiss watch and its serial and model number. Click here for instructions via video and photographs on how to safely package your luxury watch. All packages should be DOUBLE boxed with address information on inner box in case the outer box label is damaged.
5. Watch Chest, LLC recommends for you to ship your luxury watch through one of the following respected companies: UPS, FedEx, or US Mail Express / Priority. Purchasing shipping insurance is also definitely recommended by Watch Chest, LLC.
6. When the package is received, we will fully inspect the luxury watch and reply with a confirmation and the total cost of Rolex service.
7. After you have decided which watch services you would like performed and once Watch Chest, LLC sends you a confirmation, you will receive a payment invoice at your listed email account.
8. If there are any unanswered questions, please do not hesitate to contact Watch Chest, LLC (1.417.239.0438 or Sales@watchchest.com)


What luxury watch brands do you service?

Tag Heuer
We do not service Rolex Quartz


How much will a Rolex service cost?

Starting at $400.00, our Rolex service includes an overhaul, the Watch Chest's unbeatable three (3) year warranty, and return postage and shipping insurance.

Send us your luxury watch for a free estimate! Watch Chest will examine your luxury watch and send you an email detailing the exact cost of Rolex repair. Should you decide not to repair the luxury watch, you are asked to provide payment for return postage and shipping insurance. We accept majot credit cards and Paypal to cover this expense.

For Rolex Daytona movements 41.30 and 40.39, the overhaul Rolex service starts at $650.00.


What if my Swiss watch only needs professional polishing or does not require a complete overhaul?

If the movement appears to have been serviced recently, Watch Chest can offer minor lubrication and expert polishing for a lesser price determined upon examination. Please contact Watch Chest  to speak with us directly if you have any questions. Our phone number is 1.417.239.0438 and we are located in Branson, Missouri, USA.


What does the Watch Chest warranty include on overhauls?

Three (3) Years; Watch Chest warrants this dependable and proper functioning of this luxury watch for three (3) years that you own the Swiss timepiece. This warranty does not cover loss, tampering, mistreatment or modification through the addition or substitution of parts or accessories not supplied at original service. In the event of malfunction arising as long as you own the luxury watch, Watch Chest will cause the defect to be remedied at no cost to the consumer, once the consumer delivers the luxury watch to Watch Chest. Customer pays for all luxury watch shipping.


Why choose Watch Chest for my Swiss watch?

Our in-house, luxury watchmaker (Glenn Rutledge) is AWCI, CW21 certified and has over 35 years of Swiss watch experience. He is one of the top luxury watchmakers in the Swiss watch business, as there are less than 260 CW21 certified watchmakers in the world as of February 2012. Our Swiss watchmaker is professionally trained graduating in 1977 and has received continuing Rolex education from the Rolex Dallas Training Facility.


How long will a Rolex service take?

In most cases a Rolex service takes 10 - 15 days from the day we receive your Swiss timepiece.


How do I send my luxury watch to Watch Chest?

Watch Chest recommends UPS, FedEx, or US Mail Express / Priority. Insurance on your timepiece is recommend. For instructions via video and photographs on how to safely package and ship your luxury watch, please click here.


What are the methods of payment that Watch Chest accepts?

Watch Chest accepts payment by major credit card through PayPal, PayPal, check, cash, and bank wire transfer.


How do I know the luxury bracelet will fit my wrist once I purchase the fine, Swiss watch?

If you have a tape measure at home, Watch Chest suggests that you measure your wrist to assure a good fit when you receive your luxury watch. For your convenience, we have a PDF file of a printable tape measure. Once the PDF is opened, print off and cut out the tape measure, measure the wrist that you will wear the Rolex watch on, and let us know your wrist size. We will have it sized for you and ready to wear upon arrival.

Printable Tape Measure PDF File to size your Rolex


Rolex on eBay

Here is a link to our Swiss watch service auction on eBay:

eBay luxury watch Service Auction

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Hot Spots of Branson, Missouri








Sant Blanc - Rolex Watches

Bank Wire Payment Method Discount

Receive a discount on your luxury watch when you use a bank wire as your payment method! To purchase a Rolex at the best discounted price we offer, please call us directly at 1-417-239-0438 or email sales@watchchest.com

How Much Can I Save Purchasing Used Rolex Watches?

How much can you save choosing a pre-owned luxury watch?

How's does over 50% percent off of a Rolex sound?

For example, a used Rolex Submariner with a champagne, serti dial and blue bezel is a beautiful and distinctive Rolex watch that we currently sell for around $19,750. This Rolex retails for about $33,900. There's no mystery, nothing hidden. We know our customers are choosing to spend their money wisely, gaining the best value, customer service, and investment that their hard-earned money can buy.

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The Story of Rolex

"I wore a Rolex 40 years ago when I broke the sound barrier and I still do today. A pilot has to believe in his equipment. That's why I wear a Rolex." –General Chuck Yeager (1992) who has now worn a Rolex for over 60 years

Lasting for over a century, Rolex has grown into one of the most respected and well-known watch companies in the world. Its prestigious reputation comes from years of constructing highly accurate wristwatches with unparalleled performance and supreme aesthetics. Knowing the history of the Rolex watch makes an owner appreciate its craftsmanship and magnificence even more.

The Two Founders of Rolex

Hans WilsdorfA German Hans Wilhelm Wilsdorf and an Englishman (brother-in-law) named Alfred James Davis founded the company that eventually became known as Rolex. Davis focused intensely on horology, the study of creating timepieces, and made his first three watches. His work was such a success, all three passed rigorous testing for accuracy and it was then he decided to start his own company and founded Wilsdorf and Davis Ltd. in 1905. Wilsdorf and Davis Ltd. was then registered as Rolex in Switzerland in 1908 and later in London in 1912. It is said that the name Rolex was chosen because it was clear, easy to spell, and easy to pronounce and in 1915, the Wilsdorf and Davis Ltd. officially was renamed The Rolex Watch Company Ltd. After a few more variations, it finally became the company we know today as Rolex, SA.

At first, Rolex only focused on selling pocket watches and travel clocks. Pocket watches at the time were only designed for men because wristwatches were considered to be a timepiece designed for ladies and femininity. Travel clocks were extremely popular and Rolex even covered them in leather cases.

The early models were made of silver with porcelain dials and were equipped with Rebberg movements that were imported from Herman Aegler’s firm in Switzerland. Wilsdorf chose these movements for their accuracy.

However, Wilsdorf did not want to restrict his company to only these two types of watches. He instead took a step forward and began to manufacture wristwatches for men, a response to the Boer War in South Africa when soldiers began to wear small pocket watches on their wrists. Since it was too hot for them to wear jackets carrying a pocket watch, the soldiers wore watches with a leather strap around their wrists so that it could free their hands.

Once awarded the Class This decision began a new standard of accurate and reliable watches in the industry. The public began to recognize the brand and notice its focus on true quality.

A Certificate of Precision from the famous Kew Observatory in England in 1914, Rolex decided to use movements from Aegler’s firm only after they successfully had passed Rolex’s own series of rigorous tests.

To learn more about Rolex visit the Wiki page here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex
The Rolex website: http://www.rolex.com


    Stainless Steel Used by Rolex

    While most high-end, luxury watch companies utilize 1.4435 (or 316L) Stainless Steel, Rolex uses 1.4439 (or 904L) Stainless Steel in timepiece production. While they both have the same grade of hardness, 904L has a slightly higher nickel discharge, and thus a slightly higher resistance to corrosion. 904L is mainly used in industry applications handling chlorides, sulfur dioxide gas or other toxic materials. While this may sound like overkill for use with luxury wristwatches, it's just another example of the quality of Rolex where only the best will do.

    Rolex Tritium Use


         A luminescent material is needed on the hand and hour markers in order for a timepiece to be able to be read in the dark. For the most part, the emission of light on a watch is caused by either photo luminescent material, which is determined by an exciting luminous radiation, or a radio luminescent type, something determined by the radioactivity of the material.

         From the 1950s to the late 90s, Rolex used the radioactive material Tritium, which refers to the chemical used on the hands and hour markers of the watches, which causes them to illuminate. To indicate the amount of the radioactive material, Rolex began marking a designation at the bottom of the dial:

    • T SWISS MADE T: the radioactive material Tritium is present on the wristwatch. The amount of radioactive material emitted is limited to a maximum of 25 milliCurie.
    • SWISS T < 25: indicates more specifically that the wristwatch emits an amount of Tritium that is less than the 25 milliCurie limit. This indication can be found on all Submariners from 1989 to 1997.
    • SWISS T 25: the wristwatch emits the maximum allowable amount of Tritium (i.e. a full 25 milliCurie).
    • SWISS (or) SWISS MADE: wristwatches produced after (around) 1998, indicates the presence of LumiNova as the luminous material. These terms were also the indication on wristwatches produced prior to the 1950s, when Radium was used as the luminous material. However, at that time "SWISS" or "SWISS MADE" simply indicated that the watch was made in Switzerland.
    • T: deposits activated by tritium
    • Pm: deposits activated by promethium
    • T 25: indicated deposits activated by tritium on higher value watches
    • Pm 0,5: deposits activated by promethium indicated on higher value watches.

         Timepieces that feature radio luminescent emissions are, for the most part, designed for very specific uses: aviation watches such at the GMT-Master I & II or professional diver watches such as the Submariner. When a radioactive material is used, the ISO 3157 Standard has strictly defined guidelines that allows only low values of two types of radionucleides to be used: tritium (3H) and promethium (147 Pm), materials that emit a radiation of low energy.

         It is important to mention that Tritium used for Rolex watches with luminescent parts are not harmful when sealed inside the watch. Around 1998, watchmakers such as Rolex changed the designation to read SWISS or SWISS MADE, when they replaced the Tritium with LumiNova, an organic, non-radioactive chemical, as the source of luminescence.

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    June 2012

    June 2012 Newsletter

    Watch Chest News

    Father’s Day is here! This month, WatchChest is honoring the noble and under-appreciated role of a father by incorporating ALL things male in this issue! From famous male quotes to stories of war, this month is all about men!

    An Interesting Bit of Rolex History “By the start of World War II, Rolex watches had already acquired enough prestige that Royal Airforce pilots bought them to replace their inferior standard-issue watches. However, when captured and sent to POW camps, their watches were confiscated.[1] When Hans Wilsdorf heard of this, he offered to replace all watches that had been confiscated and not require payment until the end of the war, if the officers would write to Rolex and explain the circumstances of their loss and where they were being held. Wilsdorf, who believed that "a British officer's word was his bond", was in personal charge of the scheme.[2][3] As a result of this, an estimated 3,000 Rolex watches were ordered by British officers in the Oflag (prison camp for officers) VII B POW camp in Bavaria alone.[2] This had the effect of raising the morale among the allied POWs because it indicated that Wilsdorf did  not believe that the Nazis would win the war.[2]  American servicemen heard about this when stationed in Europe during WWII and this helped open up the American market to Rolex after the war.”[1][4]

    1. "New York University Stern School of Business magazine". W4.stern.nyu.edu. http://w4.stern.nyu.edu/sternbusiness/fall_winter_2004/rolex.html. Retrieved 14 January 2010.

    2.Ernesto Gavilanes. "Antiquorum information release through Internet Archive". Antiquorum.com. http://replay.waybackmachine.org/20081212154959/http://www.antiquorum.com/eng/press/2007/05_12_07/pow_rolex_eng.htm. Retrieved 4 March 2011.

    3.^ The Sydney Morning Herald Time on your hands by James Cockington 27 September 2006

    4.Story reproduced from  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_watches

    Very few people knew Elvis wore a Rolex.  This watch was not just any Rolex, however; Elvis wore a limited edition Rolex King Midas (Model Number 9630). Rolex only made 1000 of the original King Midas watches and at the time, was the most expensive Rolex money could buy. For example, in 1970 a Rolex Day-Date retailed for $1825 and a King Midas retailed for $2,500. This very rare, limited-edition Rolex King Midas was given to Elvis as a token of appreciation for playing 6 days of sold-out concerts in 1970 at the Houston Astrodome Livestock Show & Rodeo.

    Of the 1,000 original King Midas watches that Rolex, Elvis owned and wore number 343, which ironically was made special for people who are left-handed. The back is engraved and reads "To Elvis Presley From The Houston Livestock Show Officers 1970."

    May 2012

    May 2012 Newsletter

    Text Format:      WatchChest Newsletter        http://www.facebook.com/watchchestusa


    179174 shown $7,950 at watchchest.com. For more styles and price points, call 417-331-1882.
    Rolex Lady-Datejust
    The most popular and yet one of the most highly regarded ladies Rolex is the Lady-Datejust. A timeless classic, the Lady-Datejust can be chosen in a simple style all the way to a blinding amount of bling.
    The Lady-Datejust has a case size of 26mm. This lady­like watch is available in stainless steel, two-tone stainless steel and 18 kt gold, and 18 kt yellow gold. With an almost endless selection of combinations for dials, diamonds, bezels & lugs, and the Oyster, Jubilee, or President bracelet, the Lady-Datejust is the perfect gift for that mom/wife/superhero.

    WATCH Highlight

    The Rolex Yacht-Master is fairly young, only launching in 1992. Extremelydurable with sporty features, the Yacht-Master was an instant success. The 18 kt yellow gold 40mm model was followedby a ladies 29mm and 35mm mid-size. Each are available in stainless steel, 18 kt yellow gold, and two-tone.
    Primarily designed for sportingactivities, the Yacht-Master is water submersible up to 330 feet. The special time-lapse bezel measures an elapsedamount of time, such as the amount of air used or time spent under water whilediving.
    Aside from its practical functions andSwiss-made durability, the Rolex Yacht-

    YACHT-Master is a commanding timepiece. There is the perfect amount of casual andthe classic aesthetic beauty of everyRolex. Ranging from the ultra-sporty fullstainless steel and slate dial to the 18 kt
    yellow gold and Mother of Pearl, there is

    Check out www.watchchest.com for more Yacht-Master and other Rolex models.
    Chris is always available for personal service at a Yacht-Master to .t a variety  of 417-331-1882.
    personal style or your lifestyle itself.

    The Rolex 16628 18kt yellow Gold Mother of Pearl Ruby dial is available for $19,500 at watchchest.com

    April 2012

    April Rolex Newsletter

    April 2012 text Format:

    Mother’s Day is Fast Approaching

    What did you get your mom last year for Mother’s Day? How about your wife, the amazing mother of your children? To you hard-working moms: what did you get yourself? Well, here at Watch Chest we wanted to give you a good month’s worth of a head start to pick out which Rolex would be perfect for the occasion.

    Why a Rolex?

    What would be the number one reason so many of us choose Rolex? Status, plain and simple. Of course, several reasons come in at a close 2nd: aesthetics, company history, or even the beauty of the movement itself as a work of art. Mentions of other brands are subsequently followed by an eye roll; never to match up against the quality and loyalty-inducing trance of a Rolex timepiece.

    We’d love to hear why YOU choose Rolex! Click the link to E-mail  us!

    To avoid using what may be inappropriate language, the initial word that comes to mind to describe the new Rolex Sky-Dweller is sick... as in awesome, stunning, or so ridiculously cool. Rolex has taken revolutionary technology and made it even more mind-blowing. Which consequently, must be a beautiful nightmare for Rolex watchmakers everywhere.

    Inspired by Saros, an astronomical phenomenon that takes place in the heavens, the Sky-Dweller is made with the world traveller in mind. This is the first watch made by Rolex with a self-adjusting annual calendar and 2 time-zones. The calendar can tell the difference between a 30- and 31- day month, thanks to Saros. This also allows for the months to be displayed and read on the face, as well! A small box above the numerals on the face represent each month (where January is at the 12 0’clock, and so on) and the current month is identified by a contrasting color.

    The Sky-Dweller’s calibre 9001 movement is so different compared to any movement before it. The new Ring Command bezel is now in control of adjusting the date, local, and reference time. Each of the 3 positions the Ring Command is rotated to is then rapidly adjusted by the rotating crown.

    The reference time allows the wearer to view 2 different time zones simultaneously by the rotating 24-hour wheel on the face, where the current reference time is identified by a red triangle. When traveling, the local time is easily adjusted because of the jumping hour hand, cutting off half of the time it takes to set the hours back or forward.

    The 42mm Sky-Dweller is currently available in 3 hot styles: white gold & ivory satin dial, Everose gold & champagne sunray dial, both with an Oyster band. A model with a gorgeous brown leather band and chocolate sunray dial completes this history-making model.

    All information and more is available to read at Rolex.com

    March 1, 2012

    March Rolex Newsletter

    Text Format:

    Spring Forward

    Daylight Savings is upon us! Set your watches ahead... and while you’re at it, wind your watch those 20 rotations for the month.

    Get ready for spring by purchasing a pre-owned watch for

    Mother’s Day, Class Reunions, and Graduations!

    Spring is the time of the year for watch shows! Watch Chest is making plans to attend upcoming dealer watch shows in Las Vegas and Orlando. These dealer-exclusive shows are beneficial as  they allow us to make contact with our vendors and explore additional networking opportunities. At these watch shows, we are also able to access new and “hard to find” product which we are excited to pass on to our customers at a substantial savings!

    This just in! Rolex has just released its newest watch called the Sky-Dweller. This sleek and sporty watch is for the world traveler as it features two timezones and an annual calendar.

    Rolex has also restyled several models for 2012. These watches are stunning and have been highly anticipated by our staff! Be watching for our Special Edition newsletter where we will be highlighting these new models!

    Get ready to trade-up your watch!

    This month, Watch Chest is featuring its Men’s Rolex 18k Yellow-Gold 40mm Daytona, model 116518 (MSRP $23,700.00). This beautiful watch has an authentic Rolex blue leather strap with a deployment buckle. The dial is a factory Rolex blue Arabic dial under a perfect Sapphire crystal and a Rolex Tachymeter bezel. This watch is in excellent condition, as we guarantee that this authentic Rolex is pristine and comes with a three year warranty that assures complete, dependable function.

    This watch is called a Daytona, which was named for the racing enthusiasts of the Daytona 500, so naturally, stop watches were a useful feature.  The dial has three smaller dials on its face that are referred to as subsidiary dials and two of the three dials are for use while the stopwatch is engaged.  One of the sub-dials is designated as an hour hand; the second sub-dial is designated for the minute hand while the stopwatch is engaged.  The last sub-dial is the “second” hand for the watch and is always moving.  The “second” hand on the large dial is the stopwatch’s second hand and sits stationary until the stopwatch is engaged.  To make things even more interesting, these sub-dials have changed positions over the years as the movements have changed.  In its earliest stages, the movement was a Valjoux movement, which changed in the 1990s to a Zenith movement. The sub-dials were in a different order, but in the 2000s, Rolex movement was installed which placed the “second” hand at the six-o’clock location.

    A Tid-Bit of Trivia!

    The Daytona was made famous by Paul Newman as he allegedly  wore one in the movie, “Le Mans.” The definition of a “Paul Newman” style Daytona varies but popular belief is that it refers to the style where the subsidiary dials are the same colors as the outer track, most commonly, the stainless steel black face Daytona with white sub-dials style.


    Feburary 1, 2012

    February Watch Chest News

    Watch Part Glossary

    A simple mechanical watch contains about 130 components and more complex watches even contain hundreds of parts. The following glossary is here to help give you an idea about the basic components, their function, and to give you other watch terms that maybe helpful. The main parts of a simple mechanical watch include:

    • Mainspring: provides power
    • Balance Wheel: moves at a regular speed; functions with the Hairspring to mark the division of time
    • Hairspring: oscillates; functions with the Balance Wheel to mark the division of time
    • Escapement: distributes the impulses from the oscillator
    • Gear Train: transmits power
    • Winding Stem found in manually wound watches or Oscillating Weight in self-winding watches
    • Dial Train: activates the hands


    Aperture: a small opening; in some watches, the dials have openings in which certain information is given such at the date or day of the week.

    Applique: applied chapters; numerals or symbols cut out of a sheet of metal and fix
    ed upon a dial.

    Assembling: the process of fitting together the components of a movement. This used to be done entirely by hand but are now largely automated. However, a human watchmaker is crucial, especially for inspections and testing.

    Assortiment: French term for the parts used to make an escapement.

    Automatic Watch: a watch that has a mainspring that is wounds by the movementsof the owner's arm during wear. Invented by Abraham-Louis Perrelet of Switzerland in the 1700s, the automatic watch is based on the principle of terrestrial attraction, where a rotor turns and transmits its energy to the spring by means of an appropriate mechanism.



    Balance: a moving part that is usually circular, moving on its axis of rotation. Coupled with the Hairspring, the Balance swings back and forth, dividing time into exact, equal parts. These back-and-forth movements of the balance are called "oscillations" and one oscillation is composed of two vibrations.

    Bar (Lug): a thin metal rod fixed between the horns that attaches the wristband to the case.View a Watch Diagram

    Barrel: a thin cylindrical box containing the mainspring of the watch. The toothed rim of the barrel drives the train.

    Bezel: A bezel is a part of the watch that helps protect the watch face and holds the crystal in place. The bezel can have other functions depending on the specific watch. View a Watch Diagram

    Bridge: part fixed to the main plate to form the frame of a watch movement. Other parts of the watch are mounted inside fo the frame, which is part of the ébauche.



    Calibre: originally used to mean the size of a watch movement, this terms now refers to a type of movement, such as men's calibre or automatic calibre. When a calibre number is accompanied by the manufacturer's mark, it will also serve as an indication of origin.

    Case: container that protects the watch-movement from water, dust, and shocks.

    Casing: process of inserting and fixing a movement into its case.

    Chablon: French term for a watch movement where the components are not completely assembled.

    Chronograph: a watch with two independent time systems; 1. indicates the time of day; 2. measures brief intervals of time. With a Chronograph, it is possible to measure the exact duration of a phenomenon but it is not to be confused with the chronometer, the stopwatch, or the timer.

    Chronometer: a watch that has endured a series of precision tests in an official insitute. The requirements of the tests are very demanding.

    Complication: When referring to a wristwatch, a complication is described as any additional function the wristwatch performs beyond basic time telling (i.e. hour, minute and second). A common example of wristwatch complications are calendar models which display the day/date. Additional complications include chronograph models, whereas the watch performs like a basic "stop watch". Other complications worth mentioning are: second time zone, moonphase and alarms.

    Crown: knob located on the outside of a watch case and is used for winding the mainspring. For some watches, the crown can also be used to set calendar indications.View a Watch Diagram



    Date: number referring to a day of the month and is shown through an aperture.

    Dial: indicates the face or plate of material that bears the various markings to show the hours, minutes, and seconds. Dials can vary considerably in regards to shape, decoration, and material. The indications on a dial are given by means of numerals, divisions, or symbols or various types.

    Direct-Drive: refers to a seconds-hand that moves forwards in a jarring movements.

    Display: indicates time by either means of hands moving over a dial or by numerals appearing in one or more windows. These numerals may be completed by alphabetical indications or by signs of any other kind.

    Double Quick-Set: A feature on the Rolex watch that allows the owner to change the date and the day without needing to move the hands.



    Ébauche: French term for a movement blank, such as a incomplete watch movement which is sold as a set of loose parts. The main plate, bridges, train, winding and setting mechanism, and the regulator make up the ébuche. However, the timing system, the escapement, and the mainspring are not considered parts of the ébuche.

    Escapement: a set of parts that converts the rotary motion of the train into the back-and-forth motion.

    Etablissage: French term for the method of manufacturing watches and/or movements by assemling their various components in the following operations: 1. inspection and stocking of the ébuche, 2. regulating the elements and other parts of the movement, 3. assembling, 4. springing and timing, 5. fitting the dial and hands, 6. casing, and 7. final inspection before packing and dispatching.

    Etablisseur: French term for a watch factory that engages only in assembling watches by buying the components from suppliers.



    Fly-back Hand: In a chronograph with analogue display, the additional second hand can remain superposed on the other one as it moves and can be stopped independently so that it can then be made to "fly back" to catch up with the other hand. It can also be stopped and reset to zero witht he other hand.



    Hand: indicator. Usually made of a thin, light piece of metal that is variable in form that moves over a graduated dial or scale. Most of the time, watches have three hands showing the hours, minutes, and seconds.View a Watch Diagram



    Jewel: bearing; end stone or pallet used for reducing friction. Jewels are generally made of synthetic material, except for precious or semi-precious stones that used in "de luxe" watches.



    Main Plate: base plate where the rest of the watch movement is mounted.

    Mainspring: the driving spring of a watch or clock and is contained in the barrel.

    Marine Chronometer: the highly accurate mechanical or electronic timekeeper enclosed in a box and is used for determining the longitude on board a ship.

    Micro-Stella Balance: The timing balance system on the Rolex with micro timing screws that can be adjusted using a speacial tool called a micro-stella wrench.

    Middle: the middle part of the watch case where the movement is fitted.

    Movement: assembly consisting of the principal elements and mechanisms of a watch or clock, such as the winding and setting mechanism, the mainspring, the train, the escapement, and the regulating elements. The movement consists of the ébuche as well.



    Quick-Set: A feature on the Rolex watch that allows the owner to change the date without needing to move the hands. The quick-set feature was introduced in the late 1970's and added to all Rolex models by 1983.



    Regulating Elements: set of parts that makes up the regulating system and the escapement.

    Repeater: a watch the strikes the hours by means of a mechanism operated by a bold or push-piece. There are various types of repeaters including the quarter-repeater, five-minute repeater, and minute repeater.

    Rotor: a half-disc of heavy metal that is made to rotate inside the case of an automatic watch by the energy produced by the movement that is created while worn on the wrist. Its rotations continually wind the mainspring of the watch.



    Second: a basic unit of time

    Set: setting of time; the process of bringing th ehands of a watch or clock to the position that corresponds to the exact time.

    Shock Absorber: a resilient bearing that is intended to take up the shocks received by the balance staff and therefore protects its delicate pivots from damage.

    Skeleton: where the case or other various parts of the watch are of transparent material.

    Striking-Mechanism: automatic or hand-operated mechanism that strikes the hours, minutes, and so on.



    Tachometer: instrument to measure speed; in watchmaking, it is a timer or chronograph with a graduated dial on which speed can be read off in another unit of time, such as kilometers.

    Terminage: French term denoting the process of assembling watch parts for the account of a producer.

    Termineur: French term for an independent watchmaker or workshop that assembles watches for a manufacturer.

    Tourbillon: device invented to eliminate errors of rate in the vertical positions that consists of a mobile carriage or cage carrying all the parts of the escapement with the balance in the center. The escape pinion turns around the fixed fourth wheel and the case makes one revolution per minute, which nullifies errors of rate in the vertical positions.

    Triplock Crown: A winding crown developed by Rolex featured on certain Oyster family professional models, notably the divers' models, identified by three dots located below the Rolex emblem.

    Tritium: Tritium is a luminous material that makes hour markers and hands of the Rolex easier to read in the dark. Tritium is no longer used by Rolex on newer model watches.

    Rolex designation of Tritium us:

    •T SWISS MADE T: the radioactive material Tritium is present on the wristwatch. The amount of radioactive material emitted is limited to a maximum of 25 milliCurie.

    •SWISS T < 25: indicates more specifically that the wristwatch emits an amount of Tritium that is less than the 25 milliCurie limit. This indication can be found on all Submariners from 1989 to 1997.

    •SWISS T 25: the wristwatch emits the maximum allowable amount of Tritium (i.e. a full 25 milliCurie).

    •SWISS (or) SWISS MADE: wristwatches produced after (around) 1998, indicates the presence of LumiNova as the luminous material. These terms were also the indication on wristwatches produced prior to the 1950s, when Radium was used as the luminous material. However, at that time "SWISS" or "SWISS MADE" simply indicated that the watch was made in Switzerland.

    •T: deposits activated by tritium

    •Pm: deposits activated by promethium

    •T 25: indicated deposits activated by tritium on higher value watches

    •Pm 0,5: deposits activated by promethium indicated on higher value watches.



    Vibration: movement of a pendulum or other rotating movement that is limited by two consecutive positions. The balance of a mechanical watch makes about five or six vibrations per second but ones of high frequency may make up to 10 vibrations per second.



    Watch Material: components for either producing watches or for repairing them.

    Water Resistant: something made to prevent water from entering and damaging the watch.

    Winding: operation consisting in the tightening of the mainspring of a watch. Winding can either occur manually by rotating the crown or automatically during the movements of a swinging arm while an owner wears their watch.

    Rolex Submariner

    Below is a reference chart of the Rolex Submariner. Organized by metal and year, you can learn the model number, movement, and a distinguishing feature of the new revision. To help you understand these mechanical updates, click on the links below the "Features Introduced" column to view explanatory photographs.

    Submariner Oyster Perpetual Date

    Two-Tone Steel &18kt Yellow Gold

    Year   Model Number   Movement     Features Introduced
    1980s   16803   30.35      
    1987-1999   16613   31.35      
    2000-2004   16613   31.35     Sold End Links
    2004-2007   16613   31.35     No Holes in Case
    2007-2010   16613   31.35     Inner Bezel Engraving
    2010   116613   31.35     Ceramic Bezel

    Stainless Steel

    Year   Model Number   Movement     Features Introduced
    1980s-1995   16800   30.35      
    1996   16610   31.35      
    2000-2004   16610   31.35     Solid End Links
    2003-2009   16610V   31.35     Anniversary Green Bezel
    2004-2007   16610   31.35     No Holes in Case
    2007-2010   16610   31.35     Inner Bezel Engraving
    2010   116610   31.35     Ceramic Bezel

    18kt Yellow Gold

    Year   Model Number   Movement     Features Introduced
    1990-1997   16803   31.35     Reads "T" for Tritium Dial
    1997-2000   16618   31.35     Reads "Swiss" on Dial
    2000-2004   16618   31.35     Holes in Case
    2004-2007   16618   31.35     No Holes in Case
    2007-2010   16618   31.35     Inner Bezel Engraving
    2010   116618   31.35     Ceramic Bezel

    White Gold

    Year   Model Number   Movement     Features Introduced
    2008 +   116619   31.35    

    No Holes in Case, Ceramic Bezel,

    Inner Bezel Engraving, & Solid End Links

    Submariner Oyster Perpetual No-Date

    Stainless Steel

    Year   Model Number   Movement      
    1989-1999   14060   30.30      
    2001-2006   14060M   31.30     Movement Change
    2007 +   14060M   31.30     Chronometer (COSO) Certified

    From the Blog

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    Rolex GMT-Master & GMT-Master II: A Quick Overview

    The 40mm Rolex GMT-Master was first designed as an aviator watch, quickly becoming the official watch of several intercontinental airlines including Pan American World Airways. In the 1950s Rolex develop the GMT-Master in response to the rapidly increasing flying distances traveled by pilots, where the idea was to be able to read different times simultaneously as the pilots traveled through the multiple time zones in a single flight.

    The newly-introduced fourth hand permitted the display of an additional time, with the corresponding number markings on the outer bezel. Pilots used the second time to display the Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), which led Rolex to the name this special luxury watch the GMT-Master. Even though the Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) was replaced in 1972 to Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) by the Aviation Industry, the term GMT is still known and kept as part of the name of the Rolex GMT-Master.

    GMT-Master II

    The second generation known as the GMT-Master II was introduced in the early 1980s, featuring a quick-set movement upgrade and new metal options. While is was designed primarily for a professional purpose, the GMT-Master and its successor had gained popularity for not only its function but design, as well. I appreciate the fact that its quite similar to the Submariner Date - a Rolex parallel symbolizing the dark depths and height of where great men explore the world.

    Today’s GMT-Master II still captures the spirit of the original GMT-Master, but instead with increased reliability and durability. The 3186 movement features the Parachrom hairspring to offer better resistance to shocks and temperature variations to ensure more reliable timekeeping; advancements with the construction of the watch itself not only modernized the aesthetics but offered greater durability and convenience.  


    The bezel is the highlight of the GMT-Masters, coordinating with the 24-hour hand to allow wears to read a third time zone. It is bidirectional - rotating either way - and is a feature only also seen on the Yacht-Master collections.

    Over the years, the numbered metal “inserts” that were placed into the steal casing of the bezel would easily become worn, scratch, or faded from sun and the elements. As a remedy Rolex introduced the Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel insert in 2005 and started inscribing the numerals and graduations directly, boasting that each bezel requires 40 hours to produce. An extremely hard material, the Cerachrom bezel is significantly more durable by being nearly scratchproof and unaffected by sunlight or water, keeping the colors vibrant over time.


    Like other professional watches, the GMT-Master II was designed for those that travel, explore, or even simply active in their every day lives. Rolex recently designed the Easylink for such individuals, understanding that an increase in physical activity, altitude, or temperature can cause your wrist to expand. You’d only need a few millimeters to make the size your Rolex more comfortable and the Easylink extension system hidden within the clasp allows the wearer to add (and then subsequently remove) said millimeters themselves within a few seconds.

    Brimming with function, beautiful design, and spirit, the GMT-Masters are a must-have for any Rolex collection.


    For vintage pieces to today’s models, check out Watch Chest’s collection!


    Rolex Serial Number Reference Chart By Year

    The serial number and year are approximate, as the serial number does not reflect the actual year sold. Condition matters more than age.

    Rolex Serial Number Reference Guide Watch Chest

    1926:  28,000   1946:  413,200   1965:  1,792,000   1984:  8,338,000   2006-2009:  Z
    1927:  30,430   1947:  478,300   1966: 1,871,000   1985:  8,814,000   2007-2010:  M
    1928:  32,960   1948:  543,400   1967:  2,163,900   1986:  9,290,000   2008-2010:  V
    1929:  35,390   1949:  608,500   1968:  2,426,800   1987-1990:  R   2010:  G000,001
    1930:  37,820   1950:  678,600   1969:  2,689,700   1989-1991:  L   Late 2010-12:  Scrambled
    1931:  40,250   1951:  738,700   1970:  2,952,600   1991-1992:  E    
    1932:  42,680   1952:  803,800   1971:  3,215,500   1991-1993:  X    
    1934:  45,000   1953:  950,000   1972:  3,478,400   1992-1993:  N    
    1935:  63,000   1954:  999,999   1973:  3,741,300   1992-1994:  C    
    1936:  81,000   1955:  200,000   1974:  4,004,200   1993-1995:  S    
    1937:  99,000   1956:  400,000   1975:  4,267,100   1995-1999:  W    
    1938:  117,000   1957:  600,000   1976:  4,539,000   1996-1999:  T    
    1939:  135,000   1958:  800,000   1977:  5,006,000   1996-2009:  U    
    1940:  164,600   1959:  1,100,000   1978:  5,482,000   1997-2001:  A    
    1941:  194,200   1960:  1,402,000   1979:  5,958,000   2000-2003:  P    
    1942:  223,800   1961:  1,480,000   1980:  6,434,000   2001-2004:  K    
    1943:  253,400   1962:  1,558,000   1981:  6,910,000   2002-2005:  Y    
    1944:  283,000   1963:  1,636,000   1982:  7,386,000   2003-2006:  F    
    1945:  348,100   1964:  1,714,000   1983:  7,862,000   2004-2006:  D    


    Every order is shipped fully insured. We urge all customers to inspect your package for damage or tampering before receiving or signing for receipt.

    When Will Your Order Be Shipped?

    Watches are usually shipped within 2-5 business days. Special order items may require more time.  Credit card orders are processed by our fraud department and additional delays or purchase cancellation may occur if conflicting information is received or unable to verify shipping address. Shipping address must be the same as the billing address, unless purchased was completed with a bank wire transfer. Verification can take from 1 hour up to 2 business days depending on information provided.


    Shipping to Alternate Addresses

    This options is only available with payments made by bank wire, checks, and cash.


    Shipping Options

    All orders are insured and shipped free via expedited shipping; 

    • Express shipments are shipped only to a street address.
    • PO Boxes require US Mail service and may cause delay in shipping.
    • Signature requirements for delivery:
      •  All packages require a signature.


    International Shipping

    Watch Chest offers international shipping. All international transactions may be paid with bank wire transfer only. We ship world-wide with FedEx Express. Notice: International shipments are shipped at the customers risk to shipping delays, international and national regulations, Customs fees, taxation, and damage.  We are not responsible for shipping delays, damage, theft, acts of nature, Customs duties, fees, taxation or regulatory import restrictions. This disclaimer applies only to shipments outside the United States and does not apply to shipments within the United States.

    Shipping to APO & FPO Addresses

    Watch Chest will ship to an APO / FPO address. Watch Chest  ships all APO & FPO orders via USPS Priority Mail.

    How to Format Addresses for APO & FPO Addresses

    Improperly formatting your address may result in delivery delays. Please enter your ship to information in the following format for APO/FPO/DPO shipments:

    • RANK Full Name
      PSC/UNIT/CMR, Box #(if applicable)
      CITY (APO, FPO, or DPO), STATE (AA, AP, or AE), ZIP (5-digit or ZIP+4)
      Use AE for Europe, Middle East, Africa, and Canada, AP for Pacific, AA for Central & South America
    • Example:
      PFC Chris Wiley
      Unit 5675, Box 15599
      United States
      APO, AP 98526-2525


    Tracking Your Packages

    U.S. customer service: 1-800-PICK-UPS (1-800-742-5877), or customer.service@ups.com.

    Federal Express
    Package tracking: www.fedex.com/us/tracking/
    U.S. customer service: (800) GoFedEx or (800) 463-3339

    Shipping your Watch to Watch Chest